Gokyo Dreams: Love and Heartache in the Himalayas by Nowland Chris L

Author:Nowland, Chris L. [Nowland, Chris L.]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Published: 2019-10-02T16:00:00+00:00

Day 5 - Surke to Phakding

October 30, 2017

Fulami and I left Kathmandu four days ago, hiking three full, hard days to reach Surke. We were now in basically the same position logistically as the hikers that would fly into Lukla this morning after the 40-minute flight from Kathmandu. From Surke, we will continue hiking north up gentle slopes until we meet and join the main trail connecting Lukla and Phakding. Once the intersection is reached, most of the trail will be downhill toward the Dudh Kosi River.

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The lodge is next to a good-sized creek and I hear the rush of the water throughout the night. I am not sure if some of that noise is actually rain or not. The windowpanes are fogged. When I wipe off the condensate, I am happy to see clear skies.

I feel disorganized this morning. What do I do first? I get at least partially dressed, go upstairs, out the front door and splash cold water on my face from the water spigot. Clarity begins to return.

The backpack is readied. Fulami and I go upstairs for breakfast. I order Tibetan bread with honey and egg. I monitor Fulami’s demeanor during our interactions. She is all smiles. Things seem to be okay, I think.

Kaji is back amazingly early, around 7:30 and I tell him I haven’t been able to find my sleeping bag stuff sack for days, even though I know it is in my backpack somewhere. I remembered specifically putting it in the side pocket, and moments later it was gone, never to be seen again. It was like an episode of “The Twilight Zone.”

He reaches down and immediately pulls it out of the lower side pocket - right below the topside pocket.

We are outside getting ready to take off and Michael is there. I indicate I am going to brush my teeth at the water spigot and he says, “What water spigot?”

I point 40 feet down the trail near the edge of the property.

“Oh, I wish I knew about that last night. I just had to use my water bottle.”

It’s going to be a sunny day. It’s going to be an easy day. Plus I was looking forward to going down memory lane from my first trek to Nepal three years earlier. To make a long story short, poor Lukla weather had canceled airplane flights for the day. I was fortunate enough to be offered the last remaining seat on a helicopter headed to Lukla. Because of fog, we pulled up short and landed in a field below Surke. By the time my guide Chhiring found me, evening was quickly approaching.

I look to the left at the landscape to see if I can recognize the field we had landed in, but I am not very successful in this effort. I also observe the steep drop-offs along the trail that I had jostled next to in the dark. They were as steep and deadly as I had sensed, hearing the Dudh Kosi River far below.

A bend in the trail with the corresponding small houses and lodges are still present in my memory.

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